Richard's Workshop


4. Concrete Block Wall

The concrete block wall is completely different from the other three. The concrete block wall was already there as a "garden wall". It will form the external veneer of a wall that will be like a brick veneer wall. The existing wall will be a parapet wall, as it is taller than the shed roof. An essental feature of this building was to design it to "hide" behind this wall. The structure that will play the part of the stud wall in a brick veneer wall is to be of steel. It will support the roof, provide a cavity for the roof gutter, and will carry a rack for heavy long materials.

Photo shows the concrete block wall. This was painted with epoxy where other items have to be sealed to it. The rest of the internal face is painted with a water proofing compound. The small space at the end of the concrete wall (where the tee tree fence is visible) was clad in steel. This was painted on the external (neighbour's) surface before installation. There will be no connection between the structural steel wall and the concrete blocks. As the rack is loaded up with heavy materials, there might be a deflection of a millimetre or two .... won't matter at all, but I would not want to impose that deflection on the concrete block wall.

The concrete block wall will not match the thermal insulation of the other walls. It will make up for this a little with thermal mass and the fact that it is shaded on the other side with vegetation. (Helpful in Summer only). I wanted to add just a little thermal barrier, so I bought some 25 mm thick high density fibre glass board.

This was attached to the wall with bathroom tile adhesive, an idea I got from a German you tube site.

Glue applied and ready to "stick in place".

I decided to make up the steel frame in two parts. First the "Top Assembly". This carries several complicating details such as the structural surround to the roof gutter cavity and the sockets to take the rafters. When welded up this had to be moved around a bit, so it was good to be able to do this without the weight of the whole wall attached.

Above you see the "Top Assembly" resting on its side. The face facing "up" will face into the room when installed. The little boxes welded in black steel are the rafter sockets.'s the view of that from the outside.

Here is a view inside the building with the steel wall "Top Assembly" temporarily held in place with wooden blocks at the front and rear walls.

Another view of the same thing.

The uprights in the wall will be inch and a quarter water pipe. The pipes will be propped in place and then tack welded to a bottom rail and to the "Top Assembly". Then I will need some serious muscle to take the whole steel wall outside to weld up all the joints with the wall oriented for best welding.